So what I'm doing here is effectively "emulating" what the motherboard already does, just closer to the actual switches. diodeswitch.jpg If I'm reading the schematic right, this should fix the issue. Of course it means 2 diodes for every switch. I'm thinking of going SMD for these on the "underside"...

Does anyone know if I can use a SPST switch, with two diodes instead of having to use DPST switches?
I think it'd work but...

If no one else has, I'll try it on the weekend I guess

Chesh

Thanks for this!

It will be useful if/when I respin the MegaCart )

Chesh

Hi, yesterday i found, that PCBWAY (or maybe other producers also) can produce also very thin PCBs (like 0.6mm or 0.8mm)... one possibility could be to produce such a thin Dual layer PCB where every "key" consists of a Contact, where all 3 necessary signals are present "entangled" like the 2 on the...

So my current thinking, from both a cost saving POV and an ease of use POV is to have the main key area be a mechanical keyboard using the DPST switches I already located, and the joystick to be a pair of Flex PCBs designed to connect the keyboard to the cable as well as emulate the membrane beneath...

Hi LoAnMiLu,
Welcome to the board. Many people have described the CreatiVision as "An Intellivision with a 6502" so I look forward to any insight you can bring!

Cheers!

Chesh

Still working on the replacement. :-) I'm currently trying to work out the best way to do various parts. The holdup is the 16 way joystick. I could do the main keyboard part with the DPST pushbuttons I found. They's actually be a fairly good fit. The joystick, however is NOT fun. I'm yet to come up ...

Something odd has been happening to my replies today. I blame the firewall. I always blame the firewall.
From looking at the intellivision controllers, I'd guess at around ￡15. (So about $30 AUD +P&P)

chesh

I reached out to a company (See this thread) and it looks like we'll need a MINIMUM order of 100.
I want 4, (2 controllers + 2 spares), but the other 96 may be a hard sell

Chesh

I think it's fixed. Tapped around with a non conductive probe, and the fault seemed to be with the big 8200𝜇F capacitor. I replaced it, and while I was there I spotted what may have been a dry joint under another capacitor in the area. Either way, the buzzing seems to have gone away. Currently tryin...